New High-End Breguet Marine Chronograph 5529 & Dame 9518

The words ‘contemporary’ and ‘sporty’ are hard to apply to Breguet, but barring the aviation-inspired Type 20, the Marine collection is as close as you’ll get to a luxury sports watch collection inspired by the brand’s legitimate and longstanding maritime ties. Introduced in 1990 and refreshed over the decades, Breguet’s sporty Marine collection welcomes two gem-set models: a 42.3mm Chronograph in white or rose gold and a feminine 33.8mm time-and-date in steel.

The Marine Chronograph 5529

The most recent update to the Marine collection took place in 2018 and included the introduction of the Breguet Marine Chronograph 5527. Produced in precious metal and titanium cases, the latest models come in 18k white or rose gold 42.3mm x 13.85mm cases with 30m water-resistance, and the distinctive fluted pattern found on the caseband of all Breguet watches. The new Marine Chronograph has 90 baguette-cut diamonds set into the bezel. Compared to other diamond cuts, the baguette cut is more masculine.

Whether white or rose gold, hand-guilloché is used here in the centre of the dark blue dial to create the dynamic wavy pattern. The two chronograph counters gently intersect and are larger than the small seconds counter at 9 o’clock. A date window with a blue background to match the dial is angled in at 4:30.Eight hour markers are represented by baguette-cut diamonds set in gold frames; the remaining gold Roman numerals at XII, III, VI and IX are applied to the chapter ring and treated with luminescent material. No changes for this new Marine Chronograph 5529, still powered by the automatic flyback chronograph calibre 582 QA. Available with midnight-blue leather or rubber strap, the gold cap on the triple-blade folding clasp echoes the shape of a ship’s wheel.

Quick facts: 42.3mm x 13.85mm case 18k white gold or rose gold – bezel set with 90 baguette-cut diamonds – sapphire crystals front and back – 30m water-resistance – blue dial with guilloché wave pattern – calibre 592 QA automatic, 4Hz, 48h power reserve – leather or rubber strap with triple-blade folding clasp – EUR 140,700

The Marine Dame 9518

This Breguet Marine Dame is the smallest model in the Marine collection. The two new timepieces, one with a silver sunburst dial and the other with a blue sunburst dial have dainty proportions – 33.8mm x 9.89mm. They are offered in 50m water-resistant stainless steel cases and the bezel is set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds, adding brilliance to the composition.

The Marine time-and-date features eight diamond markers framed in white gold with three luminescent pennant-style Roman numerals at III, IX and XII. Powered by Breguet’s slim automatic calibre 591A with a 38-hour power reserve. Both watches come with 3-link integrated stainless steel bracelets with a triple-blade folding clasp.

Quick facts: 33.8mm x 9.89mm case stainless steel – bezel set with 50 brilliant-cut diamonds – sapphire crystals front and back – 50m water-resistance – blue or silver sunburst dial – calibre 591A automatic, 4Hz, 38h power reserve – integrated steel bracelet with triple-blade folding clasp – EUR 29,300